Moritz Grossmann supports the Only Watch auction 2023 with a unique piece complete with tremblage dial
The TREMBLAGE Only Watch on Video
The Only Watch auction will bring the best of the watch world together once again in 2023: manufacturers and brands will supply exceptional unique pieces, which will then be sold in aid of research into a rare disease. Moritz Grossmann is again a member of this group of illustrious watch brands: the independent manufactory from Glashütte will be providing the TREMBLAGE ONLY WATCH with tremblage dial, the most beautiful way to express the craftsmanship cultivated by the manufactory. The unique piece has a vintage look and will be auctioned at the Only Watch auction on 5 November 2023.
TREMBLAGE Only Watch
The Moritz Grossmann manufactory in Glashütte has impressive origins: it is rooted in the legacy of Moritz Grossmann, who was one of the most eminent watchmakers in the Saxon town in the 19th century. After the manufactory was re-established, sophisticated craftsmanship became the flagship aspect of the brand. Today, Moritz Grossmann is not only a master of the design and manufacture of the timepieces, which are as exquisite as they are refined, but also the production and processing of some of the parts. The hands, for example, are crafted manually in house. Sophisticated historical finishing methods are used on selected dials.
With the aim of championing the cause of the Only Watch auction, the Moritz Grossmann manufactory combines its diverse areas of expertise to craft a singular and expressive masterpiece. Paying tribute to the glorious history of the manufactory, the TREMBLAGE ONLY WATCH wristwatch exudes a vintage aesthetic. The vintage charm of the TREMBLAGE ONLY WATCH is further highlighted by the historic logo on the dial. Additionally, the engraved cursive script signature of Moritz Grossmann on the plate pays homage to the tradition observed in Moritz Grossmann’s pocket watches during his lifetime.
Tremblage: historical craftsmanship
Tremblage involves a surface being finished by hand using a range of engraving burins. The tools are moved across the metal in a trembling motion, which is also where the name comes from, with the French ‘tremblant’ meaning ‘to tremble’ in English. The challenge in this is to create an even look. It gives rise to a rough but matt effect that dampens the incident light on the dial of the special model and makes the tremblage surface appear beautifully matt.
Once tremblage has been applied to the German silver dial, it undergoes a galvanising treatment. The surface is rhodium-plated, creating a tint. This lends even more expression to the tremblage engraving.
The raised elements of the dial – numerals, indices, the manufactory logo and the inscriptions ‘Only Watch’ and ‘Made in Germany’ – are then finely brush finished. The elaborate refinements give the figures and scales a light German silver hue that stands out from the tremblage surface as a fine nuance.
The processing of the dial, from the engraving to the finishing, takes place in Glashütte and requires several days to complete.
The hand-wound calibre 100.1: the aesthetics of the mechanism
The vintage look of the watch continues in the movement: the hand-wound calibre 100.1 bears the M. Grossmann signature in cursive script and has numerous special features. These include its construction as a pillar movement, which lends a sense of visual depth.
The finish on the components emphasize the aesthetics of the mechanism: the characteristic 2/3 plate bears the Grossmann signature engraved by hand in cursive script. The arch-shaped plate cut-out gives a view of the Grossmann balance, which is supported by the cantilevered hand-engraved balance cock. The bearing jewels made from white sapphire, which are set in gold chatons and fixed with brown-violet screws, contribute to the distinctive look of the fine movement. These are the details that mark the hand-wound movement out as being a true representative of traditional haute horlogerie.
Unique piece in stainless steel
The unique piece for Only Watch has a stainless steel case worn on a hand-sewn strap made from dark brown kudu leather.
About Only Watch
Only Watch was founded by Luc Pettavino in 2005 under the patronage of Prince Albert II of Monaco. The aim of the foundation is to raise funds for research into Duchenne muscular dystrophy – a genetic disease characterised by progressive muscular atrophy – by auctioning off exceptional watches.
Since the initiative was founded, an auction has taken place every two years and is considered by watch experts and collectors to be an event of excellence. To date, almost 100 million euros have been raised for research into neuromuscular diseases.